The Best of Geneva

We’ve just got back from a few days away visiting a very good friend – close enough for us to consider her an adopted daughter – in Geneva.  Our trip gave us an opportunity to enjoy meals with her at some of that city’s excellent restaurants and, for me, a bonus of a rare chance to taste some Swiss wines, which are almost impossible to find outside the country.

Although wine is made in all of Switzerland’s 26 cantons (administrative regions), I tried to focus on bottles from the area most local to where we were staying; wines made with grapes ripened on the wonderfully exposed south-facing slopes overlooking Lake Geneva.  Another consideration in choosing was that temperatures for our entire stay were well into the 30s (90°F and above) and so we were looking for refreshing chilled whites.  Chasselas is the most widely-planted local white variety but it rarely produces really characterful wines and something else caught my eye on one restaurant’s list. 

Domaine Dugerdil has its vineyards just to the west of Geneva at Dardagny and their organically-grown Pinot Blanc was delicious.  Dry and medium- to full-bodied with lovely savoury, spicy flavours, a rich, creamy palate and excellent length.  I was surprised to see 14.5% alcohol, but the wine was well-balanced with no burn on the finish and paired beautifully with the pan-fried Lake perch – the signature dish of every local restaurant.

At Neuchâtel, a few miles to the north, one of the local specialities is known as ‘Oeil de Perdrix’ (Partridge’s eye), a dry rosé made from Pinot Noir.  Of course, rosés, too, can be chilled and I chose an example from Châtenay Bouvier to accompany another excellent fishy meal.  Quite deeply coloured (many Oeil de Perdrix wines are barely pink at all), this was fresh, clean and smoky and, although bone dry, had lovely strawberry fruit, good intensity and a long finish.

I’ve just picked out 2 examples of the wines we enjoyed while we were in Geneva.  Clearly, the locals know a good thing when they taste it; sadly, they keep almost all of it for themselves!

From Apples to Wine

I’ve often commented how much the wine world has changed in the first 2 decades of this century, but nowhere is this more true than in South Africa.  Looking back to the 1990s, the isolation of the Apartheid years had left their wine industry in a terrible state: outdated winery equipment, winemaking methods firmly stuck in the 1950s and everything controlled by the dead hand of the Co-operative Growers Association meant that the country had a mountain to climb to meet the challenges ahead.

Fortunately, a whole generation of young wine producers was just waiting for the opportunity and quickly began travelling the world’s wine regions to gain understanding of new techniques and inspiration (and often investment, too) for their projects back home.  Historic areas, such as those around Stellenbosch, where wine had been made since the 17th century, were transformed into a hive of activity and interest, but new areas also started to emerge.

Among these was Elgin, a district to the south-east, cooled by Antarctic currents, that was previously a centre for apple orchards.  But, where apples will grow, the climate is often suitable for grapes, too and the family estate of Paul Cluver was well-placed to explore the possibilities, having owned land there for around 100 years.

We opened a bottle of their Pinot Noir recently (Majestic, £14.99, excellent value) and straight away recognised the distinctive Pinot Noir smell, most politely described as ‘farmyardy’.  On the palate, the wine is medium bodied with slightly bitter red cherry flavours and attractive earthy, mushroomy hints leading to a long, savoury finish.  The 2018 vintage was still a little tannic but worked well with our meal (pan-fried pigeon breasts with mushrooms – yummy!).  The 2020 is also in the shops but, if you buy this, it may benefit from a couple of years before opening.

It is inconceivable that a wine of this quality could have come out of South Africa – and certainly not Elgin – 30 years ago.  Further proof, if needed, of how far that country’s wines have improved and why they are really worth looking out for now.

Lightening the Gloom

The last 18 months have been a difficult time with Covid affecting all of us in some way or another.  So, when my wife, Hilary, had a ‘big’ birthday recently, we decided it was important to find something to lighten the gloom and celebrate.  And, like so many before, we decided it had to be fizz.  Traditionally, that would have meant Champagne; today, the choice is so much wider. 

Sales of Prosecco are booming, with its lighter, fruitier and slightly sweeter taste appealing to many.  The quality of Spanish Cava, once thought of as only a cheap and cheerful alternative, is improving greatly, too (although I still think you need to choose carefully).  And then there’s New Zealand with its perfect cool climate for fizz, Australia, South Africa, California.  How many birthdays would we need to sample all of those?

And the choice doesn’t end there.  There are different methods of production – traditional (as used in Champagne), tank, transfer, ancestral and so on – with each giving its own style and character to the wine as does the grape variety (or varieties) used.

So, with all these to choose from, what did we open? 

A delightful dry rosé sparkler from the Camel Valley vineyard in Cornwall.  Made with Pinot Noir, one of the Champagne grapes, this was light and elegant with lovely strawberry fruit, a mouth-filling mousse and a long herby finish.  Delicious!  It’s quite widely available but we bought it from the Wine Society for £28 – a bargain when compared to equivalent quality rosé Champagne.

Regular readers will know that we’re great fans of English sparkling wines (indeed, English and Welsh wines in general) and this bottle confirmed our view.  But don’t just take my word for it, look at the number of medals and top awards our local bottles are winning and you’ll see why it really is time to take our home product very seriously.