New Zealand has emerged onto the world wine scene over the past 2 decades thanks, mainly, to their success with one grape: Sauvignon Blanc. But look more closely and you’ll realise that the country is far from a one trick pony. They are producing some fantastic Pinot Noir in a range of styles – try examples from Marlborough, Martinborough and Central Otago and you can hardly fail to notice the different characteristics each region brings to its wines. And then there’s some delightful Chardonnays – see my blog from January 2023, ‘Can I tempt ABCs?’ for a great place to start exploring New Zealand’s take on that variety.
And there are some surprises, too, like elegant Syrah (aka Shiraz) – you might not expect New Zealand to be warm enough to ripen that but, in a few places, it is. There’s also vibrant Riesling, aromatic, spicy Grūner Veltliner (I blogged about that, too, last year) and, perhaps the ‘other’ variety that, in my opinion, shows most promise: Pinot Gris.
Nothing like the thin, bland Pinot Grigios you often find (Gris and Grigio are one and the same), the bottle from the Kumeu River Estate, north of Auckland, was delightfully rich and mouth-filling, though not in any way cloying. Quite pale in colour with a lovely apricot nose and a palate with floral hints, grapefruit, tinned pineapple, tangy spice and excellent length. Perhaps the one downside was slightly too prominent alcohol – although the label said 13.5%, it tasted more; my wife (who often remarks on high alcohol wines) complaining of a burn on the end palate. Despite New Zealand being considered a cool climate wine country, Auckland sits at latitude 37°, the same as southern Spain in the northern hemisphere, so is perfectly able to harvest fully ripe grapes including, as I already mentioned, Syrah.
So, a wine about as far different from New Zealand’s signature Sauvignon Blanc as it’s possible to be. Perhaps not an ideal aperitif but a good match for, say, poultry in a creamy sauce or even a mildly spiced curry. Available from DBM Wines of Bristol, £16.49.
Wine talks and tastings 