Cool is ‘Cool’

As climate change continues to have an impact on our world, grape growers are having to rethink how they work.  In many of the traditional areas, harvesting already takes place weeks earlier than it used to so as to avoid over-ripe grapes and excessively high alcohol levels.  Elsewhere, producers are exploring new, cooler areas, either by planting at higher altitudes or in areas close to or beyond the 50° latitude lines where, historically, grapes would never ripen.  England has been one beneficiary of this latter trend but there are many other examples as a recent tasting hosted by Ras of Corks of Cotham demonstrated.

“Wines from Higher Latitudes” explored wines from some of the most northerly and southerly commercial vineyards in the world.  The evening began with a crisp, fresh traditional method rosé fizz from Nova Scotia in Canada (£25) followed by a juicy Bacchus blend from Woodchester Valley in the Cotswolds (£19).  Lovers of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc really should give this a try.

German Rieslings have long been under-appreciated but the extra sunshine and warmth of recent years has made them better balanced and even more enjoyable.  A.J.Adam’s example from a vineyard overlooking a tributary of the Mosel was a delight with the grape’s natural acidity offset by just a touch of residual sugar; clean, aromatic and very drinkable.  Definitely one of the wines of the evening (£19).

Grapes for red wines have always been more difficult to ripen than white so pushing the boundaries might have resulted in some thin, tart examples.  Nothing of the sort!  Francois Chidaine’s Touraine Rouge from France’s Loire Valley (18.50), a blend of Cot (aka Malbec), Cabernet Franc and Pineau d’Aunis was beautifully refreshing in the style of a good village Beaujolais with lovely red fruit flavours and a hint of sweet spice.

Bodega Aniello’s Merlot from Argentina (£19), was a real surprise.  Not the sort of food-friendly chunky red I think of from Argentina but far more rounded and fresh, with flavours of red- and dried fruits and a long herby finish.  One of the first wines I can recall tasting from the Patagonia region, way to the south of Mendoza and cooled by Antarctic currents. 

Our final wine brought back happy memories of a visit we made to the most southerly wine region in the world a few years back: New Zealand’s Central Otago.  We had tasted Wild Earth’s rich, black-fruited Pinot Noir then over a delicious lunch at the vineyard, so were happy to reacquaint ourselves with it rather closer to home (£30).  It was as good as we remembered and a fitting end to a most interesting and enjoyable evening.

Beyond Malbec

Argentina may be thought of as part of wine’s ‘New World’, but grapes have been grown there for more than 400 years, planted by European settlers, originally from Spain.   Wine production started soon afterwards.  Later immigrants from France and Italy also brought their native vines with them and today, Argentina is the world’s 6^th largest wine producer, with a diverse range of different grapes in their vineyards.  But that’s not how most wine lovers see it: mention Argentina and they will tell you about its chunky, food-friendly Malbec-based reds.  Hopefully, a recent tasting organised by Rachel of Corks of Cotham (also of North Street and Cargo) on the theme ‘Argentina beyond Malbec’ may have changed a few minds.  

The first of 2 whites, the unusually named Geisha Dragon del Desierto (£22) was an early candidate for ‘best wine of the night’ with its rich flavours of peach, pear and spice.  A blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Criolla Chica, this could easily be taken for a high-quality white from France’s Rhône Valley from where, of course, the first two grapes mentioned originate.

3 of the 4 reds tasted showed another side of Argentinian wine – all were fresh, with plenty of juicy fruit and not at all heavy.  Aguijon Abeija’s Bonarda (£14) started with lovely coffee aromas on the nose and a complex spicy palate of bitter cherries, blackberries and damsons.  A year in old oak barrels simply rounded out the flavour without imparting any obvious oak flavour.

Delicious as that was, Durigutti’s Las Compuertas Cordisco (£19) just pipped the white as our favourite of the tasting – unusually, my wife and I agreed on this.  Bags of red fruits – raspberries and cherries with lovely refreshing acidity and excellent length.  But it reminded me of something else that I couldn’t quite identify until Rachel explained that Cordisco was a local name for the Italian variety Montepulciano.  Lovers of that grape should certainly try this – you will not be disappointed.

And so, with a Malbec to finish (delicious but how did that slip in?), the tasting came to a happy close showing, if there was any doubt, that Argentinian wine is definitely worth exploring beyond Malbec.