“Drink with lobster risotto or rare prime rib”. Winemakers often put advice on their labels concerning possible food matches but, I must say, this one really surprised me. Why? Because, in my mind, I can’t imagine a single wine that might pair successfully with these 2 dishes; indeed, in many ways, I’d be looking at almost diametrically opposite wines.
The richness of the lobster and the creaminess of a good risotto would point me towards a big rich white – something from Burgundy or the Rhône, perhaps, or a full-bodied Californian or Australian Chardonnay. And, although I’m not someone who subscribes blindly to the ‘white with fish, red with meat’ theory, for me, a rare prime rib is definitely red wine territory with a wide range to choose from.
So, what was this miracle wine that the winemaker thought might pair with either dish?
Cline Cool Climate Syrah from California’s Sonoma Coast region (Majestic, £13). Delightfully full and rich with intense red fruit flavours and just a hint of the kind of spicy, peppery flavours that many good Rhône Syrahs display, this is undoubtedly a big wine (14% alcohol), yet everything is so beautifully in balance that you’d never feel overwhelmed – or think that you’d have to stop after a single glass.
We drank it with some orange and molasses sugar marinated venison steaks and it went really well – the fruitiness in the wine matching the sweetness in the marinade and the pepperiness going with the gamey flavours of the meat.
But, personally, I still can’t see the wine going with either lobster or risotto. But that is the wonder of food and wine pairing – everyone’s sense of taste is unique to them and different from everyone else. And so it should be; without that, we’d lose the very diversity of food and wines that make this such a fascinating subject.
If you compiled a list of the world’s most important wine producing countries, Morocco would be found closer to the bottom than the top. But it shouldn’t be that way. With a winemaking history dating back to Roman times and spanning latitudes between 30 and 35˚N (similar to Southern California), you’d expect it to be more prominent, specialising in wines in a rich, warm climate style. That was certainly how it was in the distant past, but the 2nd half of the 20th century was not kind to Morocco’s wine industry and, by 1990, ¾ of her vineyards had either been grubbed up or were useless commercially.
Happily, with the assistance of mainly foreign investment, things are beginning to change and there are now a number of producers making interesting and very drinkable wines. But, the legacy of the bad times remains and shops won’t stock wines if customers aren’t asking for them and customers can’t buy wines if shops aren’t stocking them.
So, all credit to the Wine Society (yet again!) for taking a chance and putting the delicious Tandem Syrah on their list (£11.50).
A collaboration between Crozes Hermitage producer Alain Graillot and Thalvin in Morocco, this has all the lovely blackberry fruit of a good Syrah (M.Graillot knows all about getting the best from that variety, of course) together with an attractive richness and some spicy hints from the subtle oak ageing.
As for food matches, well, thinking of North Africa, a tagine with cous-cous comes to mind – a perfect choice. But, in fact, any full-flavoured dish using red meat, aubergines or mushrooms (especially dried ones) would go well with this, as would a nice hard cheese.
And once you’ve taken the plunge and tried this bottle, why not ask your local wine merchant what else they can find from Morocco? It’s time that country realised its potential.