What does ‘Rioja’ mean to you? For me, it’s a reliable old favourite that always has a place on our wine rack; a ‘go to’ wine when I don’t want to take the risk that one of the more obscure bottles, that I’m so often tempted by, doesn’t prove to be as good as I’d hoped.
Yet many customers misunderstand Rioja. How often have I heard that it’s a grape variety or that it’s always very oaky in taste?
Let’s start with a few basics. Rioja is not a grape variety; it’s a wine from a defined region of Spain and you can find white and rosé versions as well as the more common red. The main grape of red Rioja is Tempranillo but that’s often blended with other varieties, principally Garnacha (also known as Grenache).
And then there’s the question of oak. Some Riojas may be quite oaky in taste, but they are a minority. So, if you don’t want an oaky wine (or if you do!), check the label. It will probably say ‘Crianza’, ‘Reserva’ or ‘Gran Reserva’. The first of these will be a young, fruity wine with little or no obvious oak influence – perfect for those who enjoy New World Merlot, for example. Gran Reservas are the opposite. These are the oaky ones, having spent considerable time in barrel and taken on the typical savoury, leathery flavours of a mature wine as well as the wood character. In between are the Reservas, which are my favourites. The best are beautifully balanced, retaining enough fruit and freshness to make them really drinkable but with added complexity from a little ageing and subtle oaking – the emphasis on ‘subtle’.
There are many producers making excellent examples of this style. Muga’s Rioja Reserva is a good place to start for those who have been dubious about Rioja in the past. There’s just a hint of oak there but it’s gentle and you’d barely notice it as it’s so well integrated into the overall palate of refreshing, juicy red fruits; it’s a very food-friendly wine, too – try it with simply grilled lamb chops. Majestic have it for £17.99 but you’ll also find it in some bigger supermarkets, many wine merchants – and, of course, on our wine rack!