The recent volcanic eruption in Iceland has caught the news accompanied by some spectacular pictures. But Europe has several other active volcanos, notably Sicily’s Mount Etna, that erupts so often, it rarely makes the headlines. So why, with the constant risk of destruction, would anyone want to plant vineyards on Etna’s slopes? One, very understandable, reason is, if you grew up there and see it as ‘your’ land, but the area is increasingly attracting interest from non-locals who know of the potential of the thin layer of volcanic ash containing numerous nutrients that the eruptions leave behind. Add to this Sicily’s Mediterranean climate and the chance of planting vineyards high on the volcano’s slopes. What could be better? Just forget the chance of eruptions!
I opened a bottle of a local red, Torre Mora’s Cauru Etna Rosso, recently (Majestic Wines, £15.99 when bought as part of their ‘mix 6’ deal). Typical of Italian wines, there wasn’t much on the nose but, by contrast the palate was intense and vibrant. Lovely clean fruit flavours – cherries and damsons in particular – before a long, herby finish. The main grape variety here is the native Nerello Mascalese and, although the wine has had 3 months maturing in large oak barrels, there is no obvious oak influence, just a beautifully fruit-forward red wine.
Made from vines situated on the slopes of the volcano between 650 and 700 metres above sea level (just over 2000 feet), the climate here is cooler and with a large difference between day- and night-time temperatures. This preserves the freshness and acidity in the wine and makes it very food-friendly. We paired it with some marinated lamb and the subtly bitter damson flavour in the wine cut any richness or fattiness of the meat perfectly.
Sicily produces some delicious wines in a range of styles and, indeed, bottles labelled ‘Etna Rosso’ can vary considerably but for a fresh, fruity red, this is excellent value for the money you pay.
Wine talks and tastings 