It’s said that the 3 most important factors when considering buying a house or flat are location, location and location! The same can also be true of a wine – as enthusiasts (or investors) prepared to pay vast prices to get hold of something from a particular piece of land in Bordeaux or Burgundy will confirm. But there can also be a downside to location as the growers from the Cahors area of south-west France found to their cost.
Wine had been exported from there to England since at least the 13th Century. Sadly, however, the historic route from Cahors to the sea passed along the River Lot and then into the Garonne – one of the rivers that flows through Bordeaux. Once Bordeaux’s own wines became established, the local merchants were unhappy at the competition from up-river and imposed tariffs and restrictions, including a rule that Cahors wines couldn’t pass through the port of Bordeaux until their own local wines had been traded. The result: Cahors and the other wines from the ‘High Country’ faded into relative obscurity while Bordeaux’s thrived.
Even with modern transport methods and the lifting of these protectionist restrictions, Cahors wines are still not that well-known. This is a shame, especially as the main local grape, Malbec, is a quality variety and one that has deservedly found fame as the signature grape of Argentina. So, if that’s a style you like, why not try something from the grape’s native home?
Chateau la Coustarelle’s ‘La Grande Reserve d’Athena’ is a good example; a medium-bodied, unoaked, fruity red made with 100% Malbec (DBM Wines, £17.99). Deeply coloured, d’Athena is quite restrained on the nose but, once you taste, you get a rich palate of tart black fruit flavours – damsons and blackcurrants – with some gentle herby hints. Perhaps not as big as the 14% alcohol might suggest but a great match for lamb or even coq au vin. Our 2019 bottle was still quite tannic so I’d suggest decanting an hour or so in advance to enjoy it at its best.
And who knows? One day, the wines of Cahors might even rediscover the prestige they once had.
Wine talks and tastings 