According to the latest UK sales figures, we imported more wine from Italy than from any other country last year. I’m pleased as I blog about Italian wine quite regularly but, looking back, I seem to have almost ignored the country that came a close 2nd: Australia. It’s time to put that right, especially as I opened a delicious bottle from there a few days ago.
We have been enjoying wines from the Tahbilk estate in central Victoria for many years, especially their Marsanne, a French grape originally from the Rhône region, but one that has been grown at Tahbilk since the 1860s. Today, they still take some of the harvest from vines planted in 1927, believed to be the oldest surviving Marsanne vines in the world. Tahbilk Marsanne (widely available around £10 – £12) is a lively, fresh lemony white that is lovely on its own or pretty versatile in matching with food: fish, chicken, risotto all work well with it. But we have always thought of it as a ‘drink young’ wine; 2 or 3 years of age maximum.
So, I was surprised to see a bottle labelled ‘Museum Release’ on DBM Wines list (£18.99). From the 2017 vintage, this had clearly had several years ageing in Tahbilk’s cellars and was offered for sale now with the aim of showing how the wine could age and develop. I was intrigued and bought a bottle to try. Would it be past its best or would I discover something new in an old favourite?
Happily, the wine was still beautifully fresh on the nose with an attractive floral scent. But it was when I tasted it that I could see how it had changed with bottle age. It seemed to have become somewhat richer and fuller in the mouth than I was used to with elements of citrus, ginger and toast all coming through before a long, dry, savoury finish. A perfect match with a creamy rabbit fricassee.
This Museum Release was definitely no crusty back number; it was still lively and juicy but had grown up into an altogether more complex, complete and enjoyable wine.
Wine talks and tastings 