It was a freezing January evening but those members of the Bristol Tasting Circle who braved the weather were well rewarded. The theme of our first tasting of 2024 was ‘the Wines of Portugal’ and so we were pleased to welcome back Rachel, owner of local independent wine merchant Corks of Cotham (and of North Street!), to be our guide. Portuguese wines have improved immeasurably over the last 20 years and are made more interesting by the wealth of native grapes grown there, an aspect that Rachel concentrated on with her selection. (All wines in this tasting are available from Corks).
We began with a trio of whites. I had enjoyed Soalheiro’s Alvarinho (£20) with its crisp, fragrant citrussy flavours previously and this latest vintage (2022) did not disappoint but Pormenor’s Branco from the Douro (£21) was new to me. A lovely honied nose continued through onto the palate with tangy orange-peel flavours and a long, rich finish.
The 4 reds that followed were equally diverse with 2, in particular, catching both my, and my wife’s, attention. Carlos Raposo’s Impecavel from the Dão region (£21) is a black-fruited, unoaked Touriga Nacional from 70- to 80-year-old vines. Rather lighter than many examples of the grape, this is very drinkable now but, I think even better in a few years’ time. For £1 less, the Tinto de Tareco from the hot, southern Alentejo region spends some time in talhas (the local name for amphorae – see some of my earlier Blogs for more information on these) to give a pure, fresh, clean, cherry-fruited juicy red. Only 12.5% alcohol and good on its own or, I suspect, with red meats and hard cheeses.
And then there was the grand finale! The Portuguese island of Madeira produces some remarkable wines, fortified with grape spirit to between 17 and 20% alcoholic strength and then subjected to a unique method of cask ageing involving alternate heating and cooling. Rachel opened a 2014 vintage Sercial, the driest style, for us from famed producer Barbeito. Wonderfully crisp and intense with flavours of nuts, peel and spice and a finish that went on for ever. A very special wine and a very special treat (£55 for a 50cl bottle).
Wine talks and tastings 