As 2023 approaches its final weeks, I’ve been looking back on the wines we’ve been drinking – and those I’ve blogged about – during the year. It’s noticeable just how many have come from close to the Mediterranean or its surrounding regions. That’s not surprising, I suppose; almost all of the Med lies between 35° and 45°N – the perfect latitudes for grape growing. And that golden location is backed up by more than 2000 years of winemaking know-how.
Although mainland France, Italy, Spain and Greece all make their own delightful wines, it’s often the islands that produce something really interesting for wine lovers. They have their own distinct climates, topography and traditions. As a result, they often grow unique local grapes that feature nowhere else alongside more familiar varieties producing wines that somehow don’t quite taste as you’d expect them to.
Corsica is a fine example. Politically, it’s part of France and you might think it would follow their traditions. But geographically and historically, it’s much closer to Italy and that’s reflected in its main grape varieties, very few of which are shared with France. The one exception being Rolle, although the Corsicans use its Italian name, Vermentino. 2 other Italian varieties are widespread: Sangiovese and Mammolo are both native to Tuscany and the Chianti region in particular (albeit again disguised here with Corsican names).
The Corsican wine we opened (available from Yapp Brothers, £18.25) was a clean, fresh white from Domaine Torraccia a family-run operation in the south-east corner of the island with 40 hectares (about 100 acres) of vineyards sheltered by the nearby mountain but close enough to the Mediterranean to be influenced by its warming currents. Based on Vermentinu (another local spelling!), this had lovely intense citrus flavours and a real richness from 6 months lees-ageing. It reminded me a little of a good Chablis and was a perfect accompaniment to a tuna steak marinated in lime zest and juice and honey.
It was just about recognisable as the same variety that grows so well in neighbouring Sardinia, although perhaps a little more rounded and fuller in the mouth – a great example of the diversity of style and flavour that you find in the Mediterranean and its islands.
Wine talks and tastings 