When I lived in London, we had a saying that you’d wait ages for a bus then 2 would come along together. I’m not sure if that still happens but, just now, the same seems to apply to wine tastings! I’ve hardly been to any since the start of the Covid-19 restrictions, but this week, there were 2 on successive days. I went to both.
The 1st, hosted by local wine educator, Tim Johnson, focused on the wines of the Jura – an area of eastern France between Burgundy and the Swiss border. Vineyards here are quite scattered with most in the foothills of the Jura Mountains. Tim summarised the region succinctly as ‘The Three Is’: Indigenous varieties, Idiosyncratic styles and Iconic wines. The examples he produced wouldn’t be to everyone’s taste, but it was a fascinating exploration of the region nonetheless.
Typical of the Indigenous varieties was Poulsard (£14.95), an early-ripening grape giving a quite pale coloured red with low tannins but plenty of attractive cherry-flavoured fruit. A little like Beaujolais in style and very drinkable.
Idiosyncratic styles were almost everywhere in the tasting but I’ll mention 2 in particular: Vin de Paille (£29.50) is a dessert wine made from late-harvested grapes which are then air-dried to further concentrate the sugars. Flavours of honey and marmalade predominate. If you like Italy’s Vin Santo, try this. Macvin de Jura (£33.16) is also quite sweet but has a grapey freshness being a blend of unfermented juice mixed with local marc (perhaps better known as ‘grappa’) and then barrel aged for 10 months. Also very drinkable but beware – this is 17.5% alcohol!
And the Iconic wine? Vin Jaune is made with the local Savagnin grape (not to be confused with Sauvignon) which, after fermentation, is left to mature in cask for more than 7 years and develops in the same way as a dry amontillado sherry, which it resembles in both aroma and taste. It’s sold in 62cl bottles which is supposed to represent the amount left from a normal bottle size (75cl) after the evaporation that happens during the long ageing. This loss is known as “the angels’ share” – perhaps someone should have a word with these angels as Château-Chalon’s Vin Jaune sells for more than £60 a bottle!
So, just a brief look at some of the Jura wines we tasted – try Yapp Brothers if you want to sample them yourself. And catch up with my review of the week’s 2nd tasting next time.